A symbol of femininity for some, a piece of comfort or elegance for others, the skirt has crossed eras and cultures without ever losing its place in fashion. It has been around since ancient times, and has reinvented itself over the centuries to adapt to trends, customs and identities. Short, long, straight or flowing, skirts come in a variety of shapes and styles, making them as practical as they are expressive. Much more than just a stocking, the skirt tells a story: the story of societies, bodies and creations. This article takes you on a journey through time and around the world to better understand the evolution of the skirt, its variations and its place in the wardrobes of yesterday and today, including Mauritius.
Origin and History of the Skirt
The Beginnings in Antiquity
The skirt is one of the oldest items of clothing in human history. In Mesopotamia and ancient Egypt, men and women wore linen skirts or loincloths, adapted to the hot climate. Among the Greeks and Romans, men wore tunics or togas – long pieces of cloth wrapped around the body, often reserved for Roman citizens. Women, on the other hand, wore garments such as the peplos, a sleeveless dress held at the shoulders by fibulae, a type of decorative metal clasp used to fasten the fabric. They also wore the chiton, a softer tunic made of linen or wool, tied at the waist and often pleated. These pieces, though ancient, are already reminiscent of the shapes and drapes of some modern skirts.
The Middle Ages and the Renaissance: Gender Differentiation
In the Middle Ages, the tunic was worn by both sexes. However, from the 11th century onwards, a distinction began to be made: men adopted shorter, more fitted garments, influenced by practical reasons, in particular to facilitate movement during physical activities, work or riding. This change was also linked to developments in military equipment, which favoured functional outfits, as well as a desire to differentiate between the sexes. Women continued to wear long dresses. The skirt thus became a central element of women’s wardrobes, associated with modesty and femininity.
17th to 19th Centuries: Volume and Extravagance
Since the 17th century, female skirts have grown in size and complexity, reflecting the aesthetic and social ideals of the period. Women in high society wear imposing gowns that symbolise status and wealth.
This trend continued in the nineteenth century with the construction of specific structures to increase the volume of skirts. The crinoline, which first appeared in the 1830s, is a reinforced horsehair jupon designed to give the skirt more bulk. Around 1856, it evolved into a “crinoline cage,” which is made up of flexible metal circles connected together, allowing for a dome silhouette while supporting the weight of the petticoat.
However, because of its large size and presence in public settings, the crinoline quickly becomes a source of concern and criticism.
In the 1860s, the style evolved with the introduction of the tournure, sometimes known as the “faux-cul”. This device, located behind the size, is made up of coussinets or metal circles that provide volume to the back of the jupe. The tournure emphasises the camber of the reins and contrasts with the smoother front of the profile.
These structures, however problematic, are viewed as markers of femininity and social status. They also demonstrate how fashion can shape and sometimes overwhelm the female body based on societal and aesthetic standards of the day.
20th Century: Emancipation and Variations In Length
The twenty-first century marks a turning point in the history of the skirt, reflecting major social and cultural changes.
First World War: Towards More Practical Outfits
Between 1914 and 1918, the First World War upended dress codes. Women, who are expected to replace men in factories and fields, wear more functional clothing. Skirts are removed to allow for easier movement, and corsets are replaced with more comfortable garments. This evolution marks the beginning of a more liberated female fashion.
1920s: The Rise Of The Knee-Length Skirt And Modernity
The knee-length skirt first appeared in the 1920s, often known as the ‘Roaring Twenties’. This transformation represented women’s independence, as they aspired to break free from traditional sartorial restraints. Designers such as Jeanne Lanvin were instrumental in adopting shorter skirts and simpler shapes, emphasizing a fluid, dynamic form.
1960s: The Miniskirt, A Symbol Of Liberation
The miniskirt first appeared in the 1960s, and it quickly became an icon of the cultural and sexual revolution. Mary Quant, a British fashion designer, popularized it as an embodiment of youth, freedom, and modernism. André Courrèges, a French fashion designer, also helped with its dissemination. The miniskirt challenged convention by displaying the legs in unprecedented detail, becoming a symbol of female independence.
21st Century: Diversity, Fluidity and Reappropriation
In the 21st century, the skirt continues to evolve, reflecting the social, cultural and aesthetic transformations of our time.
The 2000s: Between Reinterpretation And Diversity
The 2000s witnessed a variety of designs and skirt lengths, including mini-skirts, pencil skirts, and full-length skirts. Designers resurrected classics, while streetwear brazenly stole them. Artists like Rihanna and Lady Gaga are influencing fashion trends by wearing skirts in a range of designs, from the most conservative to the most lavish.
2010s: Towards Inclusive, Fluid Fashion
The next decade saw a reconsideration of gender conventions in fashion. The skirt became a garment worn by everyone, regardless of gender, and became a component of an inclusive fashion strategy. Designers created unisex collections, and the skirt was reimagined in a number of ways, representing a culture seeking diversity and personal expression.
The 2020s: Sustainability And Social Awareness
The 2020s will emphasise sustainability and social responsibility in fashion. Skirts are manufactured from environmentally friendly materials, and manufacturers are supporting workmanship. The skirt is also utilised for political and social expression, representing efforts for equality and freedom of speech.
From the humble loincloths of antiquity to the magnificent shapes of the nineteenth century, from the revolution of the miniskirt to the eco-friendly designs of the twenty-first century, the skirt has evolved over time. It is more than simply a garment; it represents each generation’s values, beauty goals, social interactions, and cultural changes. Today, it represents variety, liberation, and freedom of expression while transcending gender and tradition. In this sense, the skirt continues to write its own history, following the beat of social movements and artistic changes.
