When we think of the first colonial governors in Mauritius, it is easy to imagine grand feasts with rich and unusual dishes. In reality, their meals were shaped by survival, trade, and what the island could provide at the time. Historical records and archaeological discoveries give us a clearer idea of what was actually eaten.
The Dutch Years (1638–1710)
The Dutch were the first to establish a permanent settlement on the island. Governor Adriaan van der Stel and his men depended on livestock they had introduced, such as goats, pigs, and cattle. Excavations at Fort Frederik Hendrik confirm that these meats, along with fish and turtles, were staples of their diet. Venison also became important after rusa deer were brought from Java in 1639. The animals adapted quickly and provided a steady supply of meat. Interestingly, although giant tortoises were widely exploited by sailors in the region, evidence shows they were not a regular part of the Dutch diet in Mauritius.
The French Period (1715–1810)
Under French rule, food production became more structured. Governor Bertrand-François Mahé de La Bourdonnais promoted local agriculture to reduce dependence on imports. One of the most significant additions was cassava (manioc), which became an important food for both the population and enslaved workers. Later in the century, Pierre Poivre, intendant of Île de France, introduced clove and nutmeg trees to the Pamplemousses garden. This not only strengthened the colony’s economy but also brought valuable spices into everyday cooking, giving French colonial kitchens more variety and flavour.
The British Period (from 1810)
When the British took control in 1810, food supplies remained closely tied to maritime trade. Governor Robert Townsend Farquhar presided over a colony that relied heavily on imported rice, particularly from Bengal, Batavia, and Madagascar. Local food sources such as venison, fish, and livestock continued to play a role, but imported cereals were essential for feeding both the population and the military. British records often highlight this dependence on shipping routes to ensure a steady flow of grain and provisions.
A Taste of History
The diets of Mauritius’s early governors were not luxurious banquets but practical meals influenced by agriculture, ecology, and global trade. From Dutch venison and livestock, to French cassava and spices, to British rice imports, each period left its mark on the island’s food history. Even today, traces of this past remain visible: deer still roam in the forests, clove and nutmeg trees continue to grow in Pamplemousses, and Mauritian cuisine reflects the blending of local ingredients with flavours from far beyond its shores.
